From perogies to poutine - the gastronomy of Canada

Having generalised (probably a little grossly) about Canada so far in my blog, this is definitely the time to separate the country, when discussing food. As most will know, this is a subject dear to my seemingly ever-expanding stomach, so I would not want to attribute BC vittels to those in other provinces. Canada is made up of British Columbia, Ontario, Quebec, Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, Manitoba, Prince Edward Island, Newfoundland and Labrador, Saskatchewan and Alberta (for those who did not know and yes, that included me comprehensively). 

British Columbia has benefitted from the whole Pacific Northwest cuisine movements, which emphasises fresh, seasonal and local foods and is lucky enough to have the bounty of the Pacific to draw on. BC is famed for salmon - there are 5 types - chinook, coho, pink, chum and sockeye and they are all edible. The smoking process here is somewhat different to the delicate cold-smoking that you find in Scotland (this is not the same as 'smoking in the cold' which happens frequently in Scottish pub car parks since the ban and is not so delicate). Even cold-smoked salmon has brine or sugar added for a heavier taste. The First Nations make salmon candy - which is smoked salmon marinated in maple syrup, smoked again and black pepper is added - this results in a sweet/fishy treat (two words I had not thought to use in the same sentence) that only Fraser seems to like in our family. Salmon jerky is smoked, dried and smoked again and is often to be found in the backpacks of hikers for a 'protein treat' on the run. A local technique which we discovered in the summer is to BBQ salmon on a cedar plank which gives it a unique piquancy that is duplicated in the nostrils on a wander through the red cedars of the local forests.

Other ocean bounty that is employed on the menus of BC chefs and in homes - ling cod, steelhead (which my husband has been promising to go off and fish for in the local creek recently), sea urchins (most of which are exported to Japan), gooseneck barnacles, crab and shrimp of various varieties. 

Vancouver appears to have a diverse food scene that tends to concentrate on the local and fresh with heavy leanings towards the Pacific Rim. Sushi, sashimi and noodle houses seem to be on every corner, although I have been reliably informed that quality can not be guaranteed and to hunt down specific places. Secretly I am longing to go to the Legendary Noodle House where you can watch the chef making noodles by hand behind a glass partition - sounds somewhat like a hibachi and just as much exhibitionist fun. 

There is a hearty Slow Food Movement here and lots of 'artisan' farmers, although this word is bandied around a little too abundantly and I have even seen a sign for 'artisan' smoothies. However, there are some interesting small producers - at the Tapastree (geddit, ed?) they serve a huge variety of small plates that utilise a number of different cuisines and they include a mozzarella that is being made on Vancouver Island by a farmer who has imported the buffalo. We have had several locally made cheeses and smoked meats in the Salt Tasting Room in Gastown (in a street called Blood Alley, which makes it sound somewhat less appealing and like a Jack the Ripper hunting ground). Venison, elk and buffalo meat are all available and a lean substitute for steak or traditional hamburger. At the Sechelt Farmer's market in the summer there are a number of smallholders who sell sea asparagus, wild garlic, chanterelle mushrooms and heirloom tomatoes, and these markets are replicated in small towns throughout BC.

Just in case you are beginning to think all I do is eat, we must not neglect the wine of British Columbia which is well-kept secret outside the region. Pinot Gris and Pinot Noirs abound from the Island and the more famous Okanagan Valley and some of them are outstanding (I am no Jilly Goolden, but they are worth a try if you can find them outside BC) - we also appreciate the names of the vineyards - Church and State, Dirty Laundry, Therapy, Zero Balance, Burrowing Owl and even See Ya Later. Better known for Ice Wine - an exhorbitant but delicious dessert wine, the Okanagan seems to be hiding its lights under a bushel and is content to do so.

As far as the rest of Canada goes, we shall just have to see. The Ukranians brought pierogies, which are dumplings with a cheese and potato paste in the centre, and these seem to be ubiquitous (and like lead on the plate and in the stomach for several hours). Poutine originated in Quebec and spread across the nation - 'french' fries with fresh cheese curds and beef gravy - but we have yet to sample this 'delicacy'. 

So, as I sip my Tim Horton's coffee and eat my maple syrup laden pancakes, I will be back to more medical stories - and not the one where I go for an angiogram hopefully......

Poutine - doesn't it look appetising?